A Comedy of Layers or a Comedy of Errors

Lasagna. When we pause to consider it, what comes to mind? A fat, orange cartoon cat? A runny, textural nightmare from the freezer case? The bland main course from your high school cafeteria? Properly prepared and cooked lasagna is a marvelous thing. It is a mélange of contrasting flavors, a striated and wonderful dish that far outweighs its boxed and frozen analogues. This piece gets its name from the many small mistakes that normal home cooks make when it comes to this noble dish. It could be a comedy, or it could be a tragedy--it all depends on the techniques and ingredients you use.

1. Fresh vs. Dry pasta: This all depends on your level of skill in the kitchen. Fine lasagnas have been made from both. Regardless of which one you use, it is the foundation that the needed to build a good structure for the other ingredients. With dry pasta, only ever cook it halfway to avoid an overcooked mess. With fresh dough, make sure that you roll it thin enough to avoid having to use a hardware saw to cut the final product.

2. Fillings: It doesn't matter if you choose vegetarian or meaty ingredients. If you don't pre-cook all your goodies, you'll end up with watery lasagna.
Veggie Lasagna: Sauté or roast your zucchini and mushrooms beforehand. If you're adding spinach, wash it first, then cook it down with garlic and onions. Make sure these ingredients are just moist, not soaking, before they hit the pasta.
Meats: I prefer a 50/50 mix of lean ground beef and Italian sausage. Brown all of the meat before adding. Then reserve 25% of the meat to use in your sauce. The sauce can be the basic tomato recipe from "When the Moon Hits Your Eye"; just make sure to mix in some of that meat, and then reserve 25% of the sauce to use on the finished dish.
The sauce must be thick. Do not forget to buy or grow fresh basil for all tomato-based sauces. Shred it or slice it, just make sure that it's there.

3. Cheese: Mozzarella is imperative; fresh is better but normal Mozzarella is fine. Shred it finely, or slice it very thin. Cheese is the glue that holds this dish together. Ricotta is your next ingredient. You need it more than you think, and no, cottage cheese DOES NOT WORK as a substitute so don't use it. When using ricotta, you need to give it a binder; the only one I use is eggs. Whisk two eggs into every 16 ounces of ricotta and season with parsley, salt and pepper.

4. Assembly: Start with a layer of dough or pasta on the bottom of a 9x13 glass baking dish that has been oiled first. I like to vary the layers slightly to assure that everything holds up. Pour on the ricotta mix, then the first layer of Mozzarella, and cover it with meat and sauce. Repeat the layers until all ingredients are used up. Cover the top of the lasagna with a final mix of Parmesan, Mozzarella and fine bread crumbs.

5. Baking: Set your oven to 350°. Rub olive oil on the underside of a pan-sized piece of aluminum foil, and cover your lasagna with it. Keep it in the oven for a minimum of 1 hour, then remove the foil, and turn the oven to broil to let things get brown and beautiful. Let it rest for 30 minutes before serving.

6. Service: Portion all your sections before they hit the table--it's less messy, and you can give the plates some flair with a little fresh chopped parsley, chives or basil sprinkled on and around the lasagna. Top each piece with a little extra sauce.

7. Wine Pairing: With vegetarian creations, unless you're serving a lasagna heavy in mushrooms, stick with a nice chilled white such as a Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier. With the heavier meat lasagnas, I suggest a Pinot Noir, or a Rioja, something with enough backbone to stand up to the assertive flavors of the tomato, beef, and sausage. But drink what you love; after all, all I can do is make recommendations.


Follow these simple rules, and I guarantee success with your lasagna. You can vary the fillings as much as you want, enabling you do pretty much anything with the dish. As with any food, limitless ideas make for limitless possibilities.